French fries seem so simple because everyone starts with the same handful of ingredients: potatoes, salt and fat. Yet the results are as different as a shoestring fry and a waffle fry. What’s the best spud? Which fat is first-rate: vegetable, beef, pork, duck or even goose? Techniques run the gamut; soak them, rinse them, cut them this way, cook them that way. Frites-lovers, rejoice! We’ve done the legwork, so you can make the ultimate french fries on the first try. Tuck in. – Meera Nagarajan
The potatoes
Russet. They have a low moisture content, which decreases oil absorption, yielding a fluffier, crispier fry.
The oil
Refined peanut oil, for its high smoke point.
The wild card
Duck fat. It seasons fries in a way that salt never could, imparting a deep, rich flavor.
Fabrique Delices Rendered Duck Fat $11/7-oz. container, The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com
Graisse De Canard Gold Classic (Rendered) Duck Fat $19.50/12-oz. container, Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, 314.862.2665, kitchenconservatory.com
The Recipe: The Ultimate French fries
2 lbs. large russet potatoes
1 quart peanut oil
1 cup duck fat
Kosher salt
• Peel the potatoes. As each potato is peeled, place it in a large bowl filled with enough cold water to cover, which keeps it from browning. Cut the peeled potatoes into 3∕8-inch batonettes and return them to the bowl of water.
• Rinse the potatoes until the water runs clear by dumping the water, refilling it with fresh cold water and swishing the potatoes. Repeat 3 times. Once the water runs clear let the potatoes soak; an overnight soak is best, but 30 minutes will do in a pinch. When ready to fry, transfer the potatoes to a kitchen towel and dry completely.
• Pour the peanut oil and duck fat into a Dutch oven. Heat the oil and duck fat until the liquid reaches 350 degrees. Then raise the flame to high. Using a spider, lower the potatoes into the hot oil. (The temperature will decrease to about 275 degrees, but keeping the flame on high will assure that the temperature quickly increases to 300 degrees, the ideal temperature for this first round of frying.) Fry for 8 minutes, adjusting the flame to maintain the temperature at 300 degrees. Use the spider to remove the fries, which will still be pale in color. Transfer the fries to a sheet pan to cool to room temperature.
• Meanwhile, raise the flame under the Dutch oven until the oil temperature reaches 400 degrees.
• Once the fries have cooled to room temperature, return them to the Dutch oven. Fry 2 minutes, or until golden brown.
• Use the spider to transfer the fries to a large heatproof bowl. Toss with a generous amount of salt. Serve
on a paper-lined plate or tray.
TIPS
Rinse, repeat, soak
Rinsing and soaking draws out excess starch, which keeps the potatoes from sticking together during the frying process. It also results in a fluffier fry that is tender on the inside with a crispy exterior.
Euro dipping
Fries are a European invention. So when dipping, why not do it Euro style? Axe the ketchup and go for mayo, the perfect counterpart to a quality french fry. For a kicked-up mayonnaise (with a touch of the USA), combine 1 tablespoon Louisiana-style hot pepper sauce with ½ cup mayonnaise.
TOOLS
Don’t guess at the temperature of the oil. Use a candy/deep-fry thermometer, and you won’t end up with soggy fries or burnt fries and a smoky kitchen.
Adding raw potatoes to hot oil will dramatically decrease the temperature of the oil. A heavy-duty Dutch oven will retain heat better, helping to maintain a steady temperature.
* Because highly refined peanut oil does not contain peanut allergens, most individuals with peanut allergies can safely consume it.
